Parmigiani Fleurier – SIHH 2017 – More speed, more elegance
Parmigiani’s first announcement at the SIHH 2017 will be the fruit of its ongoing partnership with car manufacturer Bugatti. The first timepieces in the collection were astonishingly complicated. Now we have the Aérolithe family, a series of more elegant and less extreme chronographs. They are inspired by the early Bugattis of the 1930s, which were sleek racing machines. The Aérolithe Performance is the product of these two influences. In terms of its overall look, the flyback chronograph has a 41 mm round titanium case, two counters and a full dial. Its sporty character and sophistication carry through to the smallest details and finish. The case is embossed with a waffle motif and the dial has a diamond-faceted finish. The push-pieces are on the left, with the crown on the right. The chronograph has been designed with racing in mind, at a mindblowing range of speeds: the tachymeter scale begins at 2,000 and goes down to… 2 km/h! The chronograph functions are indicated with orange figures, both around the perimeter of the dial and on the large chronograph minute register. For those who prefer imperial measurements, there is a second set of numbers in turquoise, giving speeds in miles per hour.
The Tonda Metrographe represents a far simpler and perhaps more chic chronograph option. The textured finishes of the case and dial are replaced by satin-brushed and polished surfaces. The counters are smaller, as is the steel case, which has a diameter of 40 mm. The lugs, while shorter and less elaborate, nevertheless retain sleek lines and a gently curved profile, as befits the deceptively simple elegance of the Metrographe.
Personally, I’m not especially a fan of the style of date display but on this view, it actually works, since I feel a single date aperture could have been too small given the expanse of clean space on the dial. Plus, the golden frame around the aperture gives a nice bit of contrast and brings the eye.Powering that the Toric Chronomètre is your automatic, in house grade PF 331, which is COSC certified as a chronometer, hence the name. It runs at a regular 28,800 vph and offers a max power-reserve of 55-hours. As you probably guessed from the dial, it’s capable of displaying the time and date just. As we have come to expect out of Parmigiani, the motion was finished to a very large standard, with the highlight of course being the solid gold, engraved rotor. Comprised of 220 components, it is visible through the sapphire caseback.The Parmigiani Fleurier Toric Chronomètre is offered in either your choice of 18k red or white gold with a black opaline or white grained dial. All four variations have been paired with a Hermès alligator strap and fitting 18k gold buckle.Boasting such a rich history, grandeur reputation and an exquisite collection of timepieces, we believed it time to talk about Parmigiani Fleurier watches. As a Swiss maker who haven’t only remained separate but also build their very own in-house movements, Parmigiani Fleurier are quite effortlessly making their way into the forefront of luxury watch design.
Elegant is also an appropriate adjective for the new Toric Chronomètre. This was Parmigiani’s most important collection for a long time, particularly when it was starting out. It has a round case, with quite a generous diameter for this type of watch at 41 mm. The bezel, in red gold like the case, is delicately fluted. The dial is understated but far from uninteresting. The minutes track, Arabic numerals and even the date have been pushed towards the edge, leaving a generous open space in the centre where the finely grained finish of the cream dial can be admired. The timepiece is chronometer-certified.
The Tonda 1950 has been Parmigiani’s best-seller for a long time, and has continued to expand with new references, including a range featuring dials made of meteorite. The newest option for 2017 has case variations in titanium and rose gold paired with dials in black-, blue- or white- treated meteorite. The result is as convincing as always, no doubt due in large part to the slim and compact profile of the timelessly stylish Tonda 1950.