Corum – Lady Golden Bridge Round 39 mm
Since its daring launch in 1980, in the midst of the quartz crisis, the highly innovative Golden Bridge ‘baguette-shaped’ in-line movement has never been short on surprises. This inimitable calibre with its vertical linear architecture has found its place among the many models that have been part of Corum’s finest hours, as its CEO points out. “The Golden Bridge is the masterpiece of the Corum Watches Jobs collection, representing the quintessence of Swiss watchmaking”, says David Traxler. “Its innovative aesthetic and the unique construction of its movement remain truly timeless. With this watch, we wanted to push the frontiers of movement architecture and of the watch itself.”
Tonneau (barrel) or rectangular-shaped cases, sometimes elongated in the extreme and fitted with transparent sapphire crystal sides, naturally appeared to represent an ideal setting in which to house the slender shape of this calibre, thereby providing a chance to admire the prowess of the watchmakers who built and assembled it. Nonetheless, this year’s launch of the first Golden Bridge Round model vividly demonstrates that associating a round watch with a horizontal movement can create a watch with fascinating geometrical effects.
Corum is now is the Golden Bridge Round launched this spring in a 43mm size, by offering a precious model with a daintier 39mm diameter dedicated to women and available in a choice of several materials and colours.
The standout Art Deco-inspired design sets a magnificent stage for the horizontal movement, superbly decorated and resting on its side in the middle of the watch. This mechanical hand-wound Calibre CO 113, with its balance wheel beating at a rate of 28,800 vph, drives the hours and minutes functions and ensures a 40-hour power reserve. The mainplate and bridges are made of gold and engraved with the Corum Watches logo surrounded by scrolling arabesque motifs. Above and below the entirely visible movement and rimmed with round diamonds, the dial is composed of resin structures infusing these timepieces with colour and shining radiance, while bearing large white Roman numerals.
Since both watches and coins are usually thought of “collectibles,” it makes a certain amount of sense to blend the two and lure aficionados of both parties. Or so the train of thought went back in 1964 for La Chaux-de-Fonds-based maison Corum, when they made their initial Coin watch depending on the American $20 Double Eagle. The version was a massive success for Corum, who’ve released numerous models over the years including the 50th Anniversary Edition we covered before. This season, a new trio of Corum Heritage Artisans Coin Watches have been declared, using American coins in addition to a much rarer (for its brand) commemorative coin from Israel.Corum were set in 1955, which makes them relatively youthful by Swiss watchmaker criteria. Their early success was defined by gold watches in the Art Nouveau design, like the Chinese design and Admiral versions. The first Coin watch combined the brand’s styling with an ultra-thin movement fitted within a sliced-in-two American gold coin, developing a unique dress watch with both exclusivity and patriotic appeal.As a obviously patriotic emblem, Corum points out that several American presidents have worn out Corum Heritage Artisans Coin Watches, including George Bush Sr, Ronald Reagan, Lyndon Johnson, Jimmy Carter, Richard Nixon, and Bill Clinton, in addition to artists like Andy Warhol.Three new versions of their Corum Heritage Artisans Coin Watch have been released this past year. We are going to start by taking a look at the golden model, reference C082/03167, which includes an American Liberty Head Double Eagle 20 dollar gold coin. This coin depicts a heraldic eagle with shield on the watch face and the mind of the Statue of Liberty on the caseback.
The six versions of this Lady Golden Bridge Round 39 mm come in a pink or white gold case set with 76 diamonds on the bezel and lugs. Water-resistant to 30m, it is topped by a glareproofed sapphire crystal and features an exhibition back secured by screws and also fitted with a sappahire crystal. The colour of the resin structure gives each watch its unique identity, enhanced by a matching alligator leather strap – apart from the pink gold model with its luminous green resin dial, which is teamed with an aubergine-coloured strap. The two other pink gold variations are combined with red and pink, while two different shades of blue adorn the white gold watches.
Finally, for the sixth version, Corum has opted for a blue and white livery – for the dial and strap respectively – while embellishing the case with precious stones including diamonds.