Today I am reviewing the Zenith Elite Chronograph Classic reference 18.2270.4069/01.C498 with El Primero 4069 calibre. This watch is, as the name suggests, part of the Elite collection. This used to be a collection with Elite movements (not an El Primero calibre). Zenith also has a collection called El Primero, which makes it a bit confusing sometimes to oversee the collection or determine to which collection a watch belongs. This specific Zenith Elite Chronograph Classic doesn’t have ‘Elite’ printed on the dial, so if you’d see it in the display of a retailer, you could have well assumed it is a watch that belongs to the El Primero family, based on the fact that it is a chronograph. Besides the El Primero and Elite families, there are also the Star, ‘Pilot’ and Academy ones. These (can) also use El Primero caliber movements.
Anyway, that doesn’t have much to do with the watch itself of course. It is just a confusing way to segment a collection of watches.
The Zenith Elite Chronograph Classic for sale was introduced last year (150th anniversary of Zenith) and comes in rose gold, like this one, and in stainless steel.
It is a relatively large watch for a dress watch, as it has a diameter of 42mm and a very thin bezel. So this Zenith sizes like an Omega Speedmaster Professional ‘Moonwatch’, but appears to be larger because of the large dial and thin bezel. In height, this Zenith Elite Chronograph classic measures 11.80mm. The large dial is simply awesome. It gives that 1950s appearance due to the domed crystal (sapphire, not plexi) and beautiful silver toned sunray finished dial. The gold plated applied indexes and leaf shaped hands strengthens this 1950s look as well.
As written above, the fact that there is no model name on the dial (or any other writing besides “Zenith”) makes it perhaps a bit difficult to know to which collection it belongs, but that’s only a practical thingy. For aesthetics reasons, it is simply beautiful that this dial is free from any other writing than the name of the brand.
The chronograph movement used in this Zenith, indicates the recorded seconds and minutes. Although I also would like to measure hours (which I regularly do when traveling for example), this one is only up to 30 minutes. It is not that a big deal for most people I guess, this watch isn’t meant to be a tool watch for example, it is a dress watch and a chronograph complication is already a bit ‘sporty’ for a dress watch.
One of the coolest things about this dial is that it is very clean and does not have a date window. More than once I commented here on watches that had a date window and in fact shouldn’t have. Patek Philippe’s Nautilus 5711 or Audemars Piguet’s Royal Oak 15202 for example, or the Omega Globemaster. Some watches really do not need a date.
Other watches definitely need a date, but classic dress watches like the Zenith Elite Chronograph Classic should remain date-less. I see it as added value to this watch. Further more, the day or date is something you see in the morning on your phone, laptop or whatever devices you carry around, you only need to know it once every 24 hours and you remember. Time is not, of course.
The caseback also shows us the new El Primero 4069 caliber. This high beat movement has a minimum power reserve of 50 hours and consists of 254 parts. It is a nicely decorated movement, with the Côtes de Genevè finish on the rotor, blued screws and column-wheel, stippling and brushed parts. A joy to observe through the sapphire crystal.
The two-register chronograph is operated using the two rectangular shaped pushers at 2 and 4 o’clock. These rectangular shaped pushers add the 1950s look & feel to the watch and its classic appearance. On the photo below you see these pushers and signed crown, with no crown guards (luckily). You can also observe the classic lines of the case and lugs on that picture, as well as the sapphire domed crystal with AR coating. The finish of the 42mm x 11.8mm case of the Zenith Elite Chronograph Classic is a combination of polished and brushed parts, which gives it a wonderful appearance, both in the sun and in low-light conditions. It is one of the watches that does very well on the wrist, that people will notice and – if they’re into watches – will comment about. I found out that it got some nice comments first, and than being asked about which brand is was. That is quite interesting, as a lot of time people will recognize the watch of a certain brand (let’s say Rolex or Audemars Piguet) and only then comment on it.
Although the catalog on the Zenith website doesn’t give any mention of this, the caseback of the Zenith Elite Chronograph Classic indicates that there are only 150 pieces made of this watch. That number corresponds to the anniversary of last year of course. There is also a stainless steel version of this watch, that is not a limited edition.
Conclusion
If this is the route that CEO Aldo Magada (great guy, we spoke to him for quite a while in Le Locle) and Jean-Claude Biverare going to take, I am all for it. I assume Biver knows Zenith is not Hublot and makes sure that it stays close to the roots of this brand from Le Locle.
The Zenith Elite Chronograph Classic in rose gold is a watch that definitely impressed me. There is little to criticize here, except for the confusing use of model and family names perhaps, but that has nothing to do with the watch itself. One could say that 42m is too large for this watch, but I concur. Although 39mm or 40mm would sound more ‘classic’ than 42mm, it actually wears great on the wrist and mine are not that large. It is the only thing actually that might bother – or prevent – people from buying this Zenith Elite Chronograph Classic, whether it is the rose gold or a stainless steel watch. If the dial design or lack of a date window bothers you, I think you are just trying to seek for excuses not to buy one if you are in the running for a new chronograph with a classic touch and price range.
Talking about pricing, the rose gold Zenith Elite Chronograph Classic I reviewed has a list price of $21,600.- USD. The stainless steel one is priced at $8900.- USD. $21,600 is a lot of money, even for a gold watch, but it is a limited edition and using this famous in-house chronograph movement. The stainless steel version is very attractive in that regard. It is on par with Omega’s or Breitling’s in-house chronograph movements for example, but those watches that are equipped with one are sporty pieces and have a completely different style. When compared to other brands that offer classic chronographs with in-house movements that are on par with this El Primero 4069, I think it is very fairly priced to be honest.
