Interestingly, perhaps because it is the top Swiss brand strong business links, and the company has tried only in the short term spanning 1872 to 1877. For any new plan to generate an internal operation to produce its own watches, mold just astronomical costs involved, except for some exquisite watches produced in Germany, the current crop, the lack of experience and expertise has been honed knowledge of Swiss industry for generations when is obvious finished complete .
It therefore followed that Tiffany, after 1877, ceased its own movement production and commissioned luxury watches to its exacting specifications from the Swiss makers with whom it had already well established links. A hallmark of many, but not all, of the watches retailed under the Tiffany label was the fact that, to avoid punitive import duties on precious metals, the company had a policy of largely importing movements from Switzerland ( which were not heavily taxed) and having the elaborate watch cases manufactured domestically in either the United States or in the UK, depending on whether the finished piece was to be sold in America or, as in this instance, through the firm’s London store, this having opened in 1868.
Internally, this case is beautifully decorated with a highly ornate engine turned pearled pattern and has a full set of British hallmarks, these informing us that it was assayed as solid 18 karat gold at Birmingham in 1925. Also present is the case maker’s mark “RN”, this being the stamp of Richard Neale of Coventry. In existence since 1786, this small workshop created some exceptional platinum and gold jewellery for the social elite of the day, particularly in the late Victorian period, and we were not in the last bit surprised to see that a wristwatch case of this grade had been ordered from the company by Tiffany, particularly as the working relationship between the two concerns had already been established back in the pocket watch era.
Sadly, because of the high intrinsic value of the 18 karat gold, sapphires and diamonds in these cases, so many of these watches were scrapped in the 1960s, when fashion very much turned against the 1920s art deco styles. This distinctive look is now very much in vogue again and original deco watches by the famous makers and retailers, like Tiffany and its competitor Cartier, command enormous prices.
The watch works perfectly and has been regularly serviced throughout its life. Most significantly in any vintage timepiece, this item has no changed parts whatsoever and is exactly as it left the Tiffany & Co store in London in 1925 when new. So many older watches have been resurrected from the dead with the use of non original or aftermarket parts in order to liquidate then in today’s frantic vintage watch marketplace, but this one is guaranteed to be correct in every respect and entirely unmolested.
The watch is boxed in a sumptuous, velvet lined item, fully signed internally as “A. Bieri, Horologerie-Bijouterie, Pilatusstrasse 3a, Luzern”. We would suggest that this box dates from the 1930s, but suits the style of watch perfectly and, is itself, a very fine collectible period item. The watch was supplied to us in this box and it seems likely that, on account of Bieri being a Swiss specialist in luxury diamond jewellery and accessories during the inter-war period, the two have lived together for many decades prior to this transaction. It would be shame to split them up now.
Overall, this is a wonderful piece of heirloom grade sapphire and diamond jewellery ( we make no apology for describing the watch as such, simply because, to our minds, the primary purpose of this item is to be decorative rather to be a timekeeper), retailed and signed by arguably the most significant high-society jeweller of the 20th century. Vintage Tiffany & Co watches are very difficult to source now and are certainly a strong appreciating asset, while at the same time being something that can be worn and enjoyed on a regular basis. In a specialist London auction or vintage wristwatch dealer’s shop, this piece would be extremely costly. We have priced it here at £1675 GB pounds, which is far from excessive for an authentic diamond and sapphire Tiffany piece from the early inter-war years and reflects the fact that here in rural Yorkshire, our trading overheads are a small fraction of what they would be if we ran our business from retail premises in Mayfair or Piccadilly.
