Reviewing The Vintage A. Lange & Söhne Saxonia Automatics with Brown Dials
With the release of two new models of its Saxonia Automatic watch — the first in the Saxonia collection to feature brown dials,Germany’s A. Lange & Söhne is celebrating the recent reopening of its boutique in Tokyo’s upscale Ginza shopping district.
Both watches contain the Lange L086.1 caliber, an automatic movement crafted in-house at the brand’s manufacture in Glashütte in the German state of Saxony. Measuring 30.4 mm in diameter and 3.7 mm thick, and composed of 209 total parts including 31 jewels, the movement, which is visible through a clear sapphire caseback, bears all of the decorative and technical quality hallmarks that aficionados of the brand have come to expect.
The new watches — whose dial color Lange refers to as “terra brown” — are housed in 38.5-mm-diameter cases, one in rose gold, the other in white gold, and just 7.8 mm in thickness. The dials, which underwent a slight redesign in 2015, are made of solid silver, and the hands (two central hands for hours and minutes and one small seconds hand on a subdial at 6 o’clock) and applied hour markers are also made of the same gold as the case material.
The hand-stitched, alligator leather straps on each watch are slightly different from one another: the strap on the rose-gold model (Ref. 380.042) is a reddish brown while the one on the white-gold model (Ref. 380.044) is a darker shade of brown. Both have prong buckles made of the same gold as the case.
The plates and bridges are made of untreated German silver; the balance cock features decorative hand engraving; the central rotor is suspended on ball bearings; and the hairspring is manufactured in-house. The balance frequency is 21,600 vph and the power reserve is a respectable 72 hours. Like all other watches that come out of the Lange atelier, each of these watches is assembled a second time after the individual movement components have been decorated and polished by hand.